Friday, March 04, 2022

Egg Cake…More Than Just A Recipe…

Arthur Mah discovered the blog post on "Early Morning Gatherings of Mom's Friends" (Feb 17, 2021).  He grew up in Wichita about a year younger than me (graduated from Wichita West in 1967).  We didn't cross paths much back then except for the gathering of the Wichita Chinese and Mar Clan for socials and special occasions. 

Arthur has written a nice memory of egg cakes made by the Chinese women in Wichita.  It's nice to have another voice and contribution to the King and Me Blog. 

(photos of Arthur - right - from 1966 West High yearbook, and
below from 2021)

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This is an egg cake memory and a glimpse of some of the Chinese women in Wichita who may have made egg cakes.

Mom’s egg cake is one of many fond, food memories.  Especially, in the late spring or early summer when strawberries were in season, egg cake with fresh strawberries was a favorite.  Dad made whipped cream for a topping.  For me, egg cake could be as simple as a slice of fresh cake or dressed up with fresh strawberries and whipped cream.  Occasionally, mom would use whipped cream as frosting and top the cake with strawberry halves for a more elegant presentation.  However, there were always bowls of strawberries and whipped cream for those who wanted more.

I think the egg cake was also the ‘go-to’ cake for birthdays.  The birthday cake was probably just the cake with candles.  The cake may be too delicate to handle cake icing like a buttercream frosting.

Mom’s egg cake recipe is in Attachment 1.

My friend commented that all the Mah’s (Ma and Mar) made the same egg cake.  She received a sponge cake recipe from her mother-in-law and it is attached (Attachment 1).  The two recipes are very similar.  My friend’s comment would have been in the context of the Chinese community in Wichita and relating to those with the family name of (Mah, Ma, or Mar plus others with non-Mah last names but were actually Mah…think ‘paper son’).  My friend’s recipe identifies one of the ingredients as Swan’s Down cake flour which was a common pantry item in our house in Wichita.

I often wonder who was the first Chinese man from our village to come to Wichita.  In this case, who was the Chinese lady who may have been the originator of the egg cake recipe used by Chinese ladies in Wichita.

So, imagine my mom arriving in the US as a young immigrant…does not know anyone…cannot speak the language.  Imagine similar young Chinese ladies settling into a new land…probably a frightening and, hopefully, an exciting experience at the same time.  See Attachment 2.

In the days when I was a kid, the Wichita Chinese community was very tight and all or most came from the same village or neighboring villages.  The young ladies formed strong bonds as they were challenged to live in a ‘new world’ and learned from those ladies who came before them.  Did these young ladies make the same egg cake?  Did these young ladies learn baking skills from a single “old Chinese lady” in the Wichita Chinese community?  We’ll never know; but a number of my childhood friends have special memories of homemade egg cake while growing up.

Egg cake brings back many memories.  I want to bow to my mom, her friends, and all the Chinese women who came before us who bravely created warm homes and loving families for all of us. 

One final note, Attachment 3, is Benjamin’s second attempt at egg cake.  On his first attempt when he turned the cake upside down to cool as I watched my mom do many times, his cake slid out of the pan and collapsed into itself.  Key note:  Don’t oil the inside of the cake pan.  Another tip:  Use a cake pan with supports or tabs on the rim (See Attachment 3).  When you turn the cake upside down to cool, these tabs on the rim become “feet” to support the cake pan and keep the top of the cake off the counter.


Attachments 1:

Mom's Egg Cake Recipe


Sponge Cake Recipe from my friend’s mother-in-law who lived in Wichita



Attachments 2:

These two photos were taken November 22, 1948 probably in the same studio.  The babies in the second photo were born in 1948 while I was born in 1949.

(l – r) Lai Gar Mah (Arthur’s mom); Fooey Hing Chuey (Jimmy’s mom); Mon Jee Mah (Marlene’s mom)

(l – r) Mrs. Chin Wee (Yim) with Gene; Mrs. Wayne Wong (Kim) with Linda; Mrs. Ning Mar (Ping) with Susan; and Mrs. Chuck Mar (Fong) with Yvonne

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